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Tika Tipu is experimental. It is a plant selector for students, researchers and curious minds. There is no guarantee that its outputs are entirely accurate — always sanity-check a species list against local knowledge, your regional council, and an eco-sourcing nursery before you buy plants.

Part 1 · User guide

Using Tika Tipu

Tika Tipu — the right plant in the right place — narrows a database of New Zealand native species down to the ones that suit your particular patch of ground. You answer up to five questions about the site, and the app returns the species that match all of them.

1 How the selector works

Every filter you set narrows the list. Every filter you skip widens it. The counter at the top of the app — n species match — updates live, so you can watch the effect of each choice as you make it.

All five filters are optional. Skipping one means “any”, not “none”. If you only know your region, set the region and jump straight to the results.

StepWhat it asksSkip it if…
1 · RegionWhich ecological region your site sits inYou want the national list, or your site is a garden using cultivated stock
2 · SoilThe soil order under your siteYou have not looked the soil up yet
3 · MoistureHow wet the ground usually is, and whether it can suffer droughtsConditions vary a lot across the site
4 · FrostThe worst frost the site normally getsYou do not know the site’s winters yet
5 · Plant useThe setting and the exact zone within itYou want a general regional list rather than one tuned to a niche
6 · Results

Move around freely. The numbered stepper at the top of the app is clickable — you can jump back to any step, change one answer and return to the results. The chips in the sticky bar show what is currently set, and the small × on each chip clears just that filter.

↻ Start over in the header clears everything at once.

2 Step 1 · Ecological region

Many native species in Aotearoa occur naturally only in certain parts of the country. Manawa, the New Zealand mangrove (Avicennia marina), grows only north of Kawhia and will not survive further south. Filtering by region is the single most effective way to avoid recommending a plant that has no business being on your site.

New Zealand is divided into 78 ecological regions, which group ecological districts sharing broadly similar geology, climate, landforms and biota. In the app you can either click your region on the map or pick it from the dropdown list.

  • Not sure which region you are in? Zoom the map to your site — the region boundaries are drawn over the basemap and the name appears when you click.
  • Working across a boundary? Run the search twice, once for each region, and plant only the species that appear in both lists.
  • Eco-sourcing: region is also your guide to provenance. Seed collected from your own ecological region is better adapted to local conditions and keeps regional genetic character intact.

3 Step 2 · Soil order

Most plants are adapted to particular soil environments. The New Zealand Soil Classification sorts our soils into 15 orders on the basis of how they formed and how they behave; Tika Tipu uses 13 of them. Look your site up on the Landcare Research soil map before you choose.

Soil orderWhat it is like
PallicPale soils; wet in winter, dry in summer. Dry eastern hill and downlands.
BrownNew Zealand’s most widespread soils; well drained, moderately fertile.
PodzolAcidic and strongly leached, under high rainfall and old forest.
OxidicOld, deeply weathered volcanic clays — Auckland and Northland.
GranularClayey soils formed on old volcanic ash.
UlticStrongly weathered with a dense, clay-rich subsoil; prone to erosion.
RawVery young and barely developed: screes, active dunes, tidal flats.
RecentYoung soils on floodplains, slopes and fresh alluvium; often fertile.
MelanicDark, well-structured and fertile; limestone and basalt country.
AllophanicFree-draining volcanic ash soils — Taranaki, Waikato, Bay of Plenty.
PumiceCoarse, free-draining pumice of the central North Island.
OrganicPeaty soils of wetlands and bogs, formed from partly decayed plants.
GleyWaterlogged soils with grey, oxygen-poor subsoils.
Semi-AridThe driest inland basins — Central Otago and the Mackenzie.
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Soil order and moisture are not the same question. A Gley soil is wet by definition, but a Brown soil might be wet in a hollow and dry on a ridge. Set the moisture step from what you can see on the ground, not from the soil name.

4 Step 3 · Soil moisture and drought

Soil moisture describes the usual moisture content of the ground at your planting spot, for most of the year — not the state it happens to be in on the day you visit.

SettingWhat it meansTypical places
WetWaterlogged or frequently saturatedSwamp and bog margins, seepages, pond edges, backswamps
MesicModerate and well drained — neither soggy nor droughtyMost flat to rolling country, gentle slopes, sheltered gullies
DryFree-draining or drought-proneRidges, north-facing slopes, sand, gravel, shallow soils over rock

Sites are rarely uniform. A stream bank runs from wet at the water’s edge to dry on the terrace above in a few metres. Run a separate search for each moisture band and plant each band with its own list — that is exactly the thinking behind the zoned diagrams in Step 5.

Can the site suffer droughts?

The moisture band describes the usual state of the ground. Drought is a different question, and the tick box under the cards asks it separately: can this area go through spells where it dries out hard?

It is not only dry sites that do. A mesic paddock on the east coast can bake through a dry summer; a wetland margin can draw down and crack in a drought year; a shallow soil over rock dries out within weeks of the last rain no matter how wet the district is. A species with no drought tolerance at all is the first thing to die in that spell, even though it looked perfectly matched to the site the rest of the time.

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What ticking it does. The filter keeps only species carrying some drought tolerance, on top of whichever moisture band you chose. So “Mesic + droughts” gives you plants that like ordinary ground but will ride out a dry spell — a smaller and more resilient list than Mesic alone.

5 Step 4 · Frost

Frost kills more new plantings than almost anything except stock and weeds, and it does it in the first winter. Many of our best-known natives — pōhutukawa, pūriri, karaka, nikau, kauri, mangrove — are frost tender and simply cannot be planted where the ground freezes. This step keeps them out of your list before you order them.

SettingWhat it meansTypical places
Not sureSkips the filter entirelyUse this if you do not yet know the site’s winters
Frost-freeFrosts essentially never happenNorthland, coastal Auckland and Coromandel, exposed coastal edges anywhere warm
Light frostsOccasional light ground frost, roughly to −2 °CMost coastal and lowland districts, sheltered north-facing slopes
Hard frostsRegular or severe frostsInland and upland country, the Volcanic Plateau, inland Canterbury and Otago, frost hollows anywhere

Answer for the worst frost your site normally sees, not the average. Choosing “Frost-free” excludes nothing — every plant copes with no frost — but it is still worth setting, because it records the answer on your results page.

Cold air runs downhill and pools. A valley floor, a hollow, or flat ground trapped behind a solid fence or shelterbelt can frost several degrees harder than the slope immediately above it. Frost hollows are why a species that thrives on the hillside dies on the flat below. If your site is one of those, answer for the hollow, not for the district.

6 Step 5 · Plant use and zones

This is the step that makes Tika Tipu more than a regional species list. Choose the setting you are planting — a road verge, a raingarden, a dune, a wetland — and the app draws that setting as a labelled cross-section. Then click the exact zone in the drawing where your plants are going.

Each zone carries its own palette of species. The crest of a dune, its seaward front slope and the damp slack behind it are three completely different growing environments only metres apart, and the app treats them that way.

  1. Pick a setting from the card grid. Each card shows a thumbnail of its cross-section.
  2. Click a zone in the drawing. Hover first — a label names each zone before you commit.
  3. Only one zone at a time can be active. Clicking the selected zone again clears it.
  4. Check the chips below the drawing. Some zones cannot be drawn in cross-section (a pergola, a rock garden, a swale’s dry bed) and are offered as chips instead. They work the same way.
  5. Use the back button above the drawing to return to the settings grid and try another.
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The drawings live in the app, not in this guide. They are interactive there — hover to read a zone name, click to select it. Open Step 5 in Tika Tipu to work through them.

The twelve settings

SettingWhat it coversExamples of its zones
UrbanGardens, lawns, hedges, green roofs and wallsLiving wall, green roof, herbaceous border, permeable paving, specimen tree, hedge
Swales & RaingardensStormwater treatment and detention pondsRoad edge, wet bed, raingarden bed, wet and dry detention ponds, aquatic
Railway BallastTrackside and ballast plantingInner ballast open turf, outer ballast edge turf, outermost shrubbery, outer rail back bush
Road VergeVerges and traffic islandsWater table, sight line, mown edge (low and mid), frangible edge, back fence, and cut/fill at crest, mid slope and foot
RuralShelterbelts and farm plantingHedgerow, under pivot arm, 1–2 row shelterbelt, 3–5 row edge and centre, vineyard
RiparianStream and river corridorsTerrace top, upper and lower scarp, levee, backswamp floodplain, emergent, aquatic bed
Dune CountryCoastal dune systemsTwo profiles: a sand dune (foredune toe, front slope, crest, back, slack, sand plain, interdune wetland, stable back dunes) and a rocky shore (coastal bush, cliffs, tidal pools)
CoastalEstuaries, marshes and cliffsMudflats, lower and upper marsh, lagoon reeds, exposed cliffs, coastal bush edge and centre
WetlandsFreshwater wetland typesSwamp, fen, grazing marsh, bog, aquatic floating and emergent, fluctuating tussock scrub and turf
RestorationBush and hillslope restorationSkin, border and core rows; crest, upper, mid, foot and toe slopes; rolling hills, flats & plains; and the landform features drawn on the profile — rocky outcrop, slip edge and centre, seepage, moraine, montane, epiphytes
Mātauranga MāoriTraditional uses and cultural plantsRākau/muka, kai, rongoā, taonga, wai (water edge)
RemediationContaminated or degraded sitesTreated wastewater, mine spoil, quarry, compacted landfill
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Remediation settings are the most experimental part of the tool. Treat those lists as a starting point for further reading rather than a planting plan, and get specialist advice for contaminated ground.

7 Step 6 · Reading your results

The results page lists every species that passes all of your filters, grouped by planting stage. The line under the heading restates the filters that produced the list, so a printed copy explains itself.

  • Simple / Detailed switches the level of information. Simple gives names only; Detailed adds height, spacing, synonym, growth form, shade tolerance and ecosystem services for each species. Where the database has no value for something it says so rather than printing a zero.
  • Refine these results narrows the list further without going back through the wizard: search by name or synonym, or filter on ecosystem service, growth form, planting stage, shade, wet ground, salt, and a height range.
  • Species names link out to the New Zealand Plant Conservation Network for photographs, descriptions and distribution.
  • Copy list puts the names on your clipboard, ready to paste into an email to a nursery.
  • Print produces a clean copy with the app furniture stripped out.
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No results? You have probably over-filtered. Clear the most restrictive chip first — usually the plant-use zone, then the soil order. A combination such as a Pumice soil in a Southland wetland may genuinely have no matches because it barely exists.

8 Planting stages

Results are grouped by planting stage — the order in which species go into the ground on a restoration, not how big they get. Working through the stages is what turns a list of plants into a sequence of plantings, often over several years.

StageWhat goes inWhen
1 · Pioneers & colonisersHardy, quick species that bind the soil and shelter everything that followsFirst planting
2 · Canopy & early successionalThe framework trees and shrubsOnce the pioneers give some shelter
3 · Understorey & enrichmentShade-tolerant plants tucked under an establishing canopyOnce a canopy is forming
4 · Epiphytes & mistletoesPerching and parasitic plantsLast, once host trees are grown

On a bare, exposed site, plant Stage 1 heavily and hold the rest back. Putting a Stage 3 understorey plant into open pasture usually wastes the plant. Stage 1 species also make the best hardy edge species described under where each plant goes.

9 Ecosystem services

Switch the results to Detailed and each species carries tags for the ecosystem services it provides. Wildlife and pollination services are listed first, because they are usually what people are planting for.

GroupServices recorded
Wildlife & pollinationNectar and pollen for lizards; nectar for insects; nectar for birds; seed and grain for birds; fruit for birds; fruit for lizards
Land & waterErosion control; filtration; coastal shelter and protection
Shelter & amenityShelter; shade
People & materialsCultural; timber; fibre; food

Growth form is tagged too — forb, mat forb, rosette forb, tussock, bunch grass, grass, sedge, rush, reed, restiad reed, centrolepid, subshrub, shrub, tall shrub, small, medium and noble tree, fern, tree fern, epiphytic fern, mistletoe, vine, scrambler, cushion, turf, tall turf and aquatic turf — which is the quickest way to check that a list has structural variety rather than twenty shrubs.

10 Tips and troubleshooting

If…Try this
The map does not loadCheck your internet connection — the basemap is fetched online. The dropdown list works offline.
You get far too many speciesAdd the plant-use zone. It is the sharpest filter in the tool.
You get noneClear filters one at a time, starting with the plant-use zone.
Your site spans two regions or several moisture bandsRun one search per combination and plant each part of the site from its own list.
A species looks wrong for your areaTrust local knowledge. The database is broad-brush and the tool is experimental.
You want to keep a listUse Copy list or Print — results are not saved between visits.
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Before you order plants, check availability with an eco-sourcing nursery in your region. Nurseries need lead time — often a full season — to grow to order, so talk to them early.

11 About the database

Dr Colin Meurk among native plants

Dr Colin Meurk ONZM · plant ecologist

The species data behind Tika Tipu was compiled by Dr Colin Meurk, a New Zealand plant ecologist whose work on indigenous biodiversity in production and urban landscapes has shaped how native planting is done here. His research spans subantarctic and alpine vegetation, urban ecology and ecological restoration, and he has spent decades arguing that native plants belong in the everyday landscape — on farms, roadsides, city streets and back gardens — not only in reserves.

The database records, for thousands of native species, which ecological regions they occur in, which soils and moisture regimes they tolerate, which planting niches suit them, what stage of a restoration they belong to, and what ecosystem services they provide. Tika Tipu is a way of querying that knowledge; the knowledge itself is his.

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Accuracy. The database is broad in scope, which means it is necessarily coarse in places. It records what a species can tolerate, which is not always what will thrive on your site. Use it to shortlist, then check with local sources.

Got your species list? Now plant it properly. Choosing the right species is only half the job — survival comes down to fencing, pest control, weed control and technique. Read How to plant, or jump straight to the planting day checklist.